london, I love you

Went to Borough Market on Thursday, my last day in London. It was an AMAZING market, I ached with desire to eat every single porchetta sandwich, fraise tartelette, roast sausage, squash ravioli, paella, thai bamboo curry, strawberry smoothie, gelato, brownie and lamb burger that the market had. In the end, I went with haddock and chips, which were delicious and crisp. I think the sights and smells of the market sealed my desire to move to London. (Aoibh, Sam, Elle, I love you, but I can't live without fresh butter, olives, and patisserie from a market stall.) 

It seems like England is having the same food renaissance as LA-- lots of signs indicating sustainable, fresh, healthy or organic ingredients/philosophy/marketing. London is a great lunch city-- lots of pubs, noodle or curry houses, bistros and cafés for all those London business people to eat at. (I think everyone who lives in London is either a business person, in suits or heels, or an artist, in leather jackets and converse sneakers.) I don't think London has a lot of opportunity for eating local, though. At the market, a few meats and cheeses were advertised as local, but most produce and sundries I noticed were French, Italian or Iberian. When I come back to London in the future, my main goal will be to eat my way through Borough market. 

I walked along the Thames, saw a galleon ship thing, modeled after Sir Walter Raleigh's ship/boat thing. I crossed the Millenium bridge, and thank God no Deatheaters showed up to wreak havoc. By the way, when I took a double decker bus to Aoibh's place, I rode in the front row on the top. Good Lord, it was one of the craziest roller coaster rides ever. Maybe it just seems that way from the top, but the bus went super fast, and then would swerve in and out of bus stop lanes, seeming to miss parked cars by millimeters or magic. It was like being on the Knight Bus from Harry Potter. (The above are really the only connections to Harry Potter. I think the upcoming mayorial election should focus on how to make London more Harry Potter-like.)

I went to the Tate Modern, which was pretty great.  I did the audio tour, which had some cool features, like Devandra Barnheart talking ardently about a Miró painting, and the jazz piece Pollock listened to while dripping/throwing/painting "No. 12."

Then, I realized that the day before, I had been to the National Gallery, not the National PORTRAIT Gallery. I mean, I noticed the signs the day before, but my brain rationalized it was some expansive and specific English notion to drop the "Portrait." So, I went to the actual National Portrait Gallery (literally, around the corner, attached to the same building as the National Gallery) and I'm really glad I did. I did the audio tour, and seeing the actual portraits and hearing the commentary, it organized the loose and messy comprehension I have of Tudor/Stuart English history. (By the way-- entry to these museums is all FREE, and I came at the right time-- the new government is making noises about ending the free-entry program.)

I also saw portraits of Princess Diana, Wallis Simpson, Jane Austen, the Queen Mother, and the new one of Princes William and Harry together, looking, frankly, sort of gay. (Gay as in homosexual, not uncool. I'm sure they're very cool.)

Had a last dinner with Aoibh and Sam, who really were very excellent (and entertaining hosts). We went to the pub, had some drinks and stayed up late talking on the couch. There are very few people I will stay up late for, and Aoibhéann is one of them. (Sadly, I don't think even the BF makes that cut.) Aoibhéann at last sang "She Moved Through the Fair," and it was so beautiful to hear your own best friend to make something so delicate and wondrous. I cried. Those Irish! With their beautiful songs, sung in key. 

My London trip was way too short, and I have so many reasons to go back. Can't wait!